With this Quick Question series nosotros will present fast fixes and collect comments from seasoned riders around specific D.I.Y. mountain bike repairs. While much of this trailside triage is covered in our repair articles and videos, this is a space for longtime riders and readers in the Singletracks customs to share their noesis. Please blazon your related experiences and advice in the comments beneath. Do y'all have a quick question? 🤔 Email [email protected]

Mountain bike pedals can plow several thousand revolutions in the time it takes the world to encircle the sun. All of that almanac spinning through puddles and grit tin lead to seized axles that are tough to remove from the cranks. Breaking that bail is the topic of this week's Quick Question session, generated past the post-obit reader research. "I want to swap out my pedals only the former ones feel like they are welded in identify. Any tips for removing a stuck pedal?"

Before digging into solutions, allow'southward consider prevention measures. When tightening a set up of pedals into the crank arms, brand sure to apply grease across all of the beam-threads, and don't over-torque the spindle. For instance, Shimano recommends tightening their SPD pedals between 35-55 Nm. I have ever tightened pedals in place with my fingers alone, and and then far they accept all stayed tight while riding. Alas, even without over torquing, the threads can seize over time, and there are a few means to gratis them.

Push down on the pedal while pulling up on the wrench.

First, make certain yous're turning the pedal-spindle in the management that will loosen it. The spindles use opposite threading on either side of the bike, loosening counterclockwise on the drive-side and clockwise on the non-driveside. There are several means to call back almost the loosening management depending on perspective, then I'll try for the clearest 1. From a regular riding position, seated on the saddle, orient ane crank arm in the horizontal forrad position and put your human foot on it. With a wrench attached to either side of the pedal spindle (some pedals have a hex inner and/or box-end outer wrench interface), pull up on the wrench while pressing down with your weight on that forrard pedal. This is the direction that all contemporary mount bike pedals will loosen, no matter where you lot are standing or seated.

Alternatively, y'all could think of It like this: pedals loosen in the same management that an external English-thread bottom-bracket (almost common modern BB) is tightened for a given side of the bike. If yous're standing on the driveside, the BB cups will tighten counterclockwise, and the pedal spindle will loosen in that same direction. The same is true in a clockwise management on the non-driveside of the bike.

After pulling and cussing at the pedal for a while to no avail, information technology's fourth dimension to go some thin lubrication in the threads to assist interruption things costless. Penetrating fluids like PB B'Laster or multi-use WD40 can slowly work their fashion into the threads to help break up the bond. Lay the bike on its side and then that the pedal spindle is facing upwardly, and spray the end of the pedal spindle with penetrating fluid. Wait 10-20 minutes before pulling on the wrench once more.

Soak the threads from either side for best results.

If the pedal spindle has been soaked in penetrating fluid a few times from both sides and it still won't bust loose, it's fourth dimension to remove the crank arm and find a sturdy bench vice. Clamp the hex fundamental or pedal wrench down tight in the vice and pull on the crank arm to suspension the bond. Call back to continue your force in the proper direction. For added force, this is one of the few instances in bike mechanics where it's okay to utilise a safe mallet or a dead-blow hammer, as acute bear on force on the crank arm volition often knock things loose. When none of that works y'all can experiment with heating the pedal spindle or crank arm (alloy only) up with a torch, merely I will leave that for experienced readers to explain equally I haven't had to take that footstep.

The final possibility is that the stuck pedal has been cross threaded, meaning that it was forcefully tightened with the threads misaligned, or the pedals were mounted on the incorrect sides. This repair volition require a new thread insert and some patience, and the pedal-spindle will likely need to be replaced. A highly skilled mechanic at your local wheel store should be able to sort this repair out for you.

It's your plow! Please share your stuck pedal tricks in the comments below.